随身英语 Make-up's little secret 化妆品的小秘密

陈小将

化妆品行业是一个不小的产业。它能使即将走出家门、面对世界的人们充满自信。但是，生产化妆品给环境带来了怎样的影响？70%的化妆品中都含有一个重要但备受争议的成分。它是什么？为什么这么有争议？生产这个化妆品成分给环境造成了什么损害？如何减轻这种损害？本期 “随身英语” 讨论化妆品背后的小秘密。
Vocabulary: make-up and conservation 词汇：化妆品和环保
Have you ever gone out without putting your face on? Whether it's a dash of foundation or a full application of lipstick, blusher or mascara, many would consider make-up essential before being seen. According to a survey by Fragrance Direct, a leading UK beauty retailer, the average UK woman uses twelve beauty products in their beauty regime daily – that's approximately £500 spent annually. But behind the monetary cost lies another, and it's one that many consumers may not know about.
70% of cosmetics are manufactured using palm oil – a substance which is controversial, and, according to many, environmentally damaging. Between 1990 and 2008, oil palm tree plantations were responsible for the deforestation of around 8% of the world's forests, according to the BBC. This leads to a loss of biodiversity and habitat for wildlife – particularly those already under threat, such as the orangutan. And demand for the crop is increasing.
To further complicate things, we can't simply ban it or stop using it. It's the most widely used vegetable oil on the planet and responsible for an industry worth more than $40 billion. Stopping its production would ruin many people's livelihoods worldwide. Worse, alternative vegetable oils, such as rapeseed, coconut or sunflower, would require up to ten times as much land to produce the same amount. This would only exacerbate the issue.
There is hope, though, of sustainable palm oil based on a global standard set by the Round Table on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) – a group of growers, retailers, NGOs and manufacturers. To meet their standards, a company must not clear any primary forest, treat workers fairly, and create wildlife zones, among other things. However, many critics say that these rules are not strict enough. According to a report by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, there is limited evidence of effective conservation as a result.
That said, in 2016, 75% of the total palm oil imports to the UK were sustainable, according to the BBC. Many retailers and leading brands use it, but as a consumer, knowing which is which can be difficult. The RSPO has a logo, but it rarely gets printed on the cosmetic label. The best we can do for now is check the ingredients carefully and do some research.

陈小将